![]() “We wanted characters’ clothes to speak for themselves, so much so that you could watch The Duchess and even with the sound off still enjoy the outfits,” says Michalski-Bray, who has been styling Ryan’s onstage performances for the past seven years.īut this isn’t just glamour for glamour’s sake. It’s perhaps fitting, then, that fashion was so prioritised in The Duchess. Plus, for those missing the red carpets, fashion month street style or even just the people-watching opportunities usually afforded by lunch breaks spent not “WFH”, fashion-forward costumes on TV are providing a welcome window in to style - beyond elasticated waists - in 2020. She and her costume designer peers are, she says, “probably the generation that had our teenage years or 20s watching fashion-forward TV” such as SATC. I Hate Suzie’s costume designer Grace Snell, thinks it’s no coincidence that high fashion is now big news on the small screen. Lily Collins in a scene from the series Emily in Paris Photograph: AP As actor Lily Collins said to Vogue, “this is Emily’s opportunity to dress up and be in Paris, and she’s going to take advantage of that.” It fits, then, that there are examples of literal dressing to rival even Bradshaw’s bardot necklines and Breton stripes, from an Alice + Olivia shirt decorated with Le Tour Eifel to broderie anglaise, a biblioteque of berets and a tote emblazoned with the Mona Lisa. Plus, it speaks to the trope of the Vogue-reading American girl in Paris, following in the red-soled heels of Carrie Bradshaw and Blair Waldorf. What has been described as her wardrobe’s “basicness” speaks to the character’s pep - a 20-something marketing executive she is on the continent to bring her kitschy American perspective to her chic Parisienne colleagues. The titular character wears fashion with a capital F - she is unafraid to pile on a millefeuille’s worth of trends, from Y-Project accordion bags to Kangol bucket hats. ![]() It also happens that Sex and the City costume designer Patricia Field has returned to the fray with one of Netflix’s most talked about recent shows, Emily in Paris, which premiered this week. The costumes worn by Letitia “Leti” Lewis in HBO’s Jim Crow-era horror Lovecraft Country - fringed frocks, cat-eye sunglasses and pedal-pushers - feel relevant to modern fashion, thanks to costume designer Dayna Pink’s melding of period silhouettes with modern fabrics and sensibilities. Even in period pieces, there is not just vibrancy (see: the mustard yellow skirt suits and teal nurses’ uniforms in Ryan Murphy’s Ratched) but style inspiration. In The Duchess, Ryan wears Zandra Rhodes frocks and feather-trimmed Sleeper pyjamas on the school run, while former child star Suzie Pickles (Billie Piper) enjoys a wardrobe filled with shearling and hair ribbons in Sky Atlantic’s mesmerising I Hate Suzie. Characters with what you might call fashion-forward wardrobes, such as the Telfar-toting Issa in the former, or the Dries van Noten-loving Villanelle in the latter, are omnipresent. Photograph: SkyĬut to now, and we are living in a golden age of TV costume design, spearheaded by shows such as Insecure and Killing Eve.
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